FOLD · DIM
Delphine Lebeau

When we first imagined FOLD, we wanted a softer, more fluid counterpart to ‘Read’. In this sample the elemi and black pepper in the opening are remarkably chic and sophisticated — a genuinely captivating first impression. As it moves from heart to base, though, a heavy, slightly sticky sweetness (likely the guaiacwood and olibanum) tends to overpower the blend, muffling the delicate woody nuance and the soft suede texture we want to feature. To lift that sweetness and add a refined, airy freshness, two adjustments:

1. Add a basil & mint facet to the top. Drawing on the herbal vibrancy of Perfumer H’s Dandelion, a touch of basil and a subtle hint of mint in the top — paired with the black pepper and elemi — would cut through the sticky, resinous sweetness of the base and give a crisp, elevated green aromatic freshness right from the spray. The intent is a living vibrancy, like a gentle dimming of bright light, without disrupting the serene, quiet atmosphere that defines ‘Dim’.
2. Restore the heart-to-base texture (suede & sandalwood). With the basil–pepper dynamic tempering the heavy sweetness, we would love the skin-like texture of suede and the delicate grain of sandalwood to come through clearly. Please smooth and lighten the heart-to-base transition so the dry-down feels airy and tactile rather than dense.

Looking forward to how this becomes a softer yet strikingly modern aromatic-woody. Thank you as always for your wonderful work.

• Perfumer H — Dandelion · basil / mint herbal-freshness reference

From the very first spritz, DIM is remarkably stable, delicate and refined — the most ‘complete’-feeling fragrance of the set, with outstanding overall balance. Our one concern: the orange flower in the heart dominates and reads overly feminine, especially on warm skin. Keeping the current framework intact, a few adjustments toward a more genderless, distinctive character:

1. Tone down the orange flower; bring out wild honey and patchouli. Please ease the floral facets that make the structure feel overly feminine, and in their place emphasise the bittersweet edge of patchouli and the fragrant, raw, untamed texture of a wild-honey accord.
2. Add vivid energy to the top (bitter lemon). A crisp, slightly bitter lemon nuance would sharpen the opening citrus; meeting the cool greenness of the violet leaf, it should open the fragrance far more sensually.
3. Elevate the mimosa and hold the longevity. We would love to bring out the cozy, elegant grain of the mimosa that the orange flower had been masking — in the spirit of Diptyque’s L’Eau Papier. Even as the orange flower comes down, please keep the mimosa’s soft texture intact, woven firmly into the sandalwood, ambrette and cypriol base for a soft but enduring skin-scent.

Thank you as always — we truly look forward to the next version.

• Diptyque — L’Eau Papier · mimosa reference